Monday, February 23, 2015

Bars and bookshops !

FEB. 18, 2015 - The New York Times Magazine - Magazine

Are there places I like as much as great bars? Yes: great bookshops. And if I had to pick a favorite in the latter category, it’s Dog Ears Book Barn in the little town of Hoosick, N.Y. Conveniently, it’s just a little ways down Route 7 from the Man of Kent, one of America’s best bars.

A couple of hours spent digging through Dog Ears for treasure, then bringing those books to the Man of Kent and perusing them over a few pints for a few more hours? That’s what I call a perfect day.

But even perfection can be improved upon. The last time I went to Dog Ears, I headed straight for the cookbook section, where there’s a subsection for books on cocktails and other drink-related matters. As I approached, I saw the buttery yellow cover, dense with black-and-red lettering, of “The Savoy Cocktail Book,” an enlarged edition published in 1933. Book collectors with purist streaks may be unimpressed that it isn’t a first edition, but I couldn’t believe my luck. The pages may have looked just about ready to unyoke themselves from the diminished binding, but the gorgeous, exuberantly colorful printing and Art Deco illustrations remained pristine.

The Goldfish Davide Luciano for The New York Times. Food stylist: Claudia Ficca. Prop stylist: Micah Morton.

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Chez Dumonet

Chez Dumonet
David, 2015-02-20 14:49

One of my downfalls is that I do not have a photographic memory. Sometimes I go out to eat and the next day, I have less of a recollection of what I ate (and drank) than some of my esteemed colleagues who write about restaurants so eloquently do. (My memory is gradually been replaced by the camera on my phone.) In this case, as soon as I got home, I wrote up some notes from the meal and quotes from the chef, which some rather concerted efforts to find on my computer failed to turn up.

That said, all the meals that I’ve had at Chez Dumonet, a spot-on classic Parisian bistro, have been memorable – regardless of the evolving ways that I have of preserving them. The memories last long after that feeling of being absolutely stuffed have diminished — the next few days after a meal here are invariably “salad days.”

Fortunately, not much changes at Chez Dumonet, which is sometimes still affectionately called Joséphine. For those who want a place that is carrying on the traditions of the Parisian bistro, you can’t do better than Chez Dumonet. The only concessions they’ve made to modern times (and waistlines) are offering half-portions of certain dishes, which are massive enough to make you wish le doggy bag was more popular in Paris. (I, personally, do not mind rewarmed bœuf bourguignon the next day for lunch.)

Chef/owner Jean-Christian Dumonet kept the nickname Joséphine, which people continue to use, the name of the beloved restaurant that he took well over a decade ago. He told me that it was previously a bougnat, a place that sold heating coal, as well as acting as a neighborhood café.

It’s evolved to what it is today. And judging from the packed dining room at lunch, with the cooks working like madmen in the kitchen and diners of all ages crowded into the dining room, it doesn’t seem like it’s going to be changing to anything else in the near future.

You could start with a few slabs of the meaty housemade terrine, but I usually go with the herring, which comes to the table in a large earthenware dish, the neatly fileted fish marinating (or swimming) in a generous pool of olive oil, with bay leaves and thyme.

It’s a “help yourself” kind of dish. But it’s best not to overdo it because the main courses that are coming up will fill any holes in your appetite.

Although I was eyeing the pigeon with crisp potato cakes that the chef was turning out in the kitchen, I have a very hard time ordering anything else at Chez Dumonet, other than the exceptional duck confit. It is – and probably always will be – the best version in Paris.

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Happy Chinese New Year

19 , February

Happy Chinese New Year! Dish Food Editor Claire Aldous shares one of her most popular recipes of all time to celebrate - an easy, fragrant Kung Pao Chicken. Sometimes the simplest things are most delicious, exemplified by Claire's miniature florentines below. Little and Friday have got simplified deliciousness down to an art, as I found out when I visited this week to get a sneak peak at a very exciting new development...

Online Editor,

RECIPE

Florentines (gf)

Gorgeous little bites of sticky caramel, crisp nuts and a little tartness from the mixed peel. Finish with a half robe of chocolate and devour.

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Kung Pao Chicken

A favourite dish of a 19th century Qing Dynasty governor of Sichuan, Ding Baozhen, this quick stir-fry is wonderfully succulent when made with chicken thighs.

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Sam Mannering's Scottadito with Artichoke Pesto

Scottadito means ‘burned fingers’ in Italian. These make extremely good and substantial finger food. Lamb is more accessible, but look out for veal if you can.

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Chickpea flour pancakes w/ fennel roasted summer vegetables and tahini yoghurt

These chickpea flour pancakes require no egg and have an incredible nutty flavour. I make a version of this dish all year round - simply roast whatever vegetables are in season.

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Eat Your Books

At Eat Your Books we want to bring you the best recipes – our dedicated team searches out and finds online recipes excerpted from newly indexed cookbooks and magazines. New recipes from the best blogs are indexed daily and members index their favorite online recipes using the Bookmarklet all the time.

Below you’ll find this week's recommendations from the EYB team.

Remember you can add any of these online recipes to your EYB Bookshelf – it’s a great way to expand your personal recipe collection.

Happy cooking and baking everyone!

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