In
today's selection -- expertise in evaluating wines may be more elusive than
wine experts would have us believe:
"Because
it's hard for people to gauge quality by flavor, they tend to gauge it by
price. That's a mistake. [Industry consultant Sue] Langstaff has evaluated
wine professionally for twenty years. In her opinion, the difference between
a $500 bottle of wine and one that costs $30 is largely hype. 'Wineries that
sell their wines for $500 a bottle have the same problems as wineries that
sell their wine for $10 a bottle. You can't make the statement that if it's
low-cost it's not well made.' Most of the time, people don't even prefer the
expensive bottle -- provided they can't see the label. Paul Wagner, a top
wine judge and founding contributor to the industry blog Through the
Bung-hole, plays a game with his wine-marketing classes at Napa Valley
College. The students, most of whom have several years' experience in the
industry, are asked to rank six wines, their labels hidden by -- a nice
touch here -- brown paper bags. All are wines Wagner himself enjoys. At least
one is under $10 and two are over $50. 'Over the past eighteen years, every
time,' he told me, 'the least expensive wine averages the highest ranking,
and the most expensive two finish at the bottom.' In 2011, a Gallo cabernet
scored the highest average rating, and a Chateau Gruaud Larose (which retails
from between $60 and $70) took the bottom slot.
"Unscrupulous
vendors turn the situation to their advantage. In China, nouveau-riche
status-seekers are spending small fortunes on counterfeit Bordeaux. (from
Mary Roach)
"Marc Dornan, of the Beverage Testing Institute, for instance, says to anyone who asks him that rating wines on a hundred-point scale, which is now common practice, is 'utterly pseudoscientific.' Tim Hanni, a Master of Wine, believes that most commentary about wines fails to take into account the biological individuality of consumers; he claims that he can predict what sort of wine appeals to you according to such factors as how heavily you salt your food and whether your mother suffered a lot from morning sickness while carrying you. Hanni has said for years that the matching of a particular wine with a particular food is a scam, there being 'absolutely no premise historically, culturally, or biologically for drinking red wine with meat.' As a way of illustrating the role played by anticipation in taste, Frédéric Brochet, who is a researcher with the enology faculty of the University of Bordeaux, recently asked some experts to describe two wines that appeared by their labels to be a distinguished grand-cru classe and a cheap table wine -- actually, Brochet had refilled both bottles with a third, mid-level wine -- and found his subjects mightily impressed by the supposed grand cru and dismissive of the same wine when it was in the vin ordinaire bottle.
"An urge to refute the
notion of expertise certainly seemed to be reflected in the headline of an
article from the Times of London about the research Brochet has
been carrying on -- 'CHEEKY LITTLE TEST EXPOSES WINE 'EXPERTS' AS WEAK AND
FLAT.' The headline caught the tone of the article, by Adam Sage, which
began, 'Drinkers have long suspected it, but now French researchers have
finally proved it: wine 'experts' know no more than the rest of us.' The test
of Brochet's that caught my eye consisted partly of asking wine drinkers to
describe what appeared to be a white wine and a red wine. They were in fact two
glasses of the same white wine, one of which had been colored red with
flavorless and odorless dye. The comments about the 'red' wine used what
people in the trade call red-wine descriptors. 'It is a well known
psychological phenomenon -- you taste what you're expecting to taste,'
Brochet said in the Times. 'They were expecting to taste a red wine
and so they did. . . . About two or three per cent of people detect the white
wine flavour, but invariably they have little experience of wine culture.
Connoisseurs tend to fail to do so. The more training they have, the more
mistakes they make because they are influenced by the color of the wine.'
" (from Calvin Trillin)
Author: Mary Roach Title: Gulp Publisher: W.W. Norton & Company Date: Copyright 2013 by Mary Roach. Used with permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company Pages: 29-30
Author: Calvin Trillin Title: "The Red and the White" Publisher: The New Yorker Date: August 19, 2002
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Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Evaluating wines may be more elusive than wine experts would have us believe:
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