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I love
cookies. If there is a selection of cookies on a dessert menu, I always
will order it. I’ve been to cookie shops from Beirut
to Bushwick,
nibbling my way through chewy chocolate chip cookies, macarons, buttery
sablés, and snappy ginger cookies, whenever I can. Even Parisians get in
on the act by dubbing chocolate chip cookies, les cookies, perhaps
because they are the classic example of a cookie, so there’s no need to
over-explain them. Un
cookie is a chocolate chip cookie.
 The French
love cookies, almost as much as they like categorizing things, so a
sablé wouldn’t be a cookie, it’s a sablé. Petite galette, biscuit, or
petit gâteau are other terms used to describe cookies, but not
necessarily cookies.
Americans have different terms for cookies, too, from shortbreads to
snickerdoodles, and many of them are well-represented in Dorie’s
Cookies, a generous, international collection of bars,
cookies, biscotti and brownies.
The latest
book from Dorie
Greenspan is an eye-catching collection of her favorite
cookies. With a bold design, each cookie is photographed and
explained, with notes on how to vary the recipe in sidebars called
“Playing Around,” written in Dorie’s always helpful, encouraging, voice.
 I gathered
all the ingredients to make Torta sbrisolona, a crumbly Italian “cookie”
made with almonds and cornmeal, broken into pieces and best served with
coffee, and was intrigued to see that she updated her famous World
Peace Cookies, inspired by Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé. But the
Cast-Iron Pan Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars looked like they
really needed to be made. So I did.
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