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I often
wonder where people will go when they tell me they want to dine somewhere
“out-of-the-way” in Paris. Do they want to go to the outer reaches of the
20th or 15th arrondissements for lunch? And if they want to go somewhere
where “only locals” eat, will they be happy with a standard plat du jour? Or
do they want more creative cooking, with an accent on fresh ingredients?
In a tight,
closely watched city like Paris, there are few places that are
undiscovered. When I first stopped into Mokonuts one
day for a cookie, shortly after they opened, there weren’t many people
there. When I went back recently, it was packed. And with good reason.
 To be
honest, I was miffed that it took me so long to go back, but I’ve
been so busy that it was hard to get away in the middle of the day for
lunch, which is the only time Mokonuts is open. (They are planning to
open for dinner service in the near future.) But since they have two
kids, and do all the cooking themselves, Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem
need to be home by the time the kids are out of school.
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