The first
time I had chicken cooked caramel sauce was at The Slanted
Door in San Francisco. “Caramel? With chicken?” I thought. But
once I tasted it, I didn’t need to wonder why it became their signature
dish.
Back then,
The Slanted Door was a small restaurant in the Mission, on a street that
was notable for Latin markets, edgy bars, and burritos. Things have
changed and last time I went with Romain, I took him into a hipster shop
that had “pine water,” that was something like $80 a bottle. When the
bearded clerk wearing a soy-based dyed muslin apron with leather straps
and vintage buckles kindly asked how we were finding everything, Romain
replied in broken English, “Very expensive.”
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