Tributes to the late Judy Rodgers

December 3, 2013 by Lindsay - Eat Your Books

                 

 

For those who may not have heard, Judy Rodgers, who was  the chef-owner of Zuni Cafe in San Francisco, died last night of a long-standing cancer. Zuni Cafe won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant in America in 2003. In 2005, Judy Rodgers was named Outstanding Chef in America, beating out Mario Batali, Tom Colicchio, Alfred Portale and Nobu Matsuhisa.

But probably for most of us her impact was in our own kitchens, and with one cookbook. The Zuni Cafe Cookbook was an iconic book - one of the few restaurant-inspired cookbooks that were written with the home chef in mind. Unlike many in that genre, her recipes were easily followed and maximized flavor. And its popularity is certainly evidenced by the fact that over 1,000 EYB members own the book. 

And it is no exaggeration to say that I have dreamed of Judy Rodgers' roast chicken - the most famous recipe in the book - and thoroughly enjoying that chicken is an experience I have no doubt shared with more than a few EYB members. So her death at 57 has a double impact. First, anyone dying at 57 is way too young and, second, she brought some pleasure into the world - something to be proud of, aspire to, and not that easily achieved.

I would be very proud to leave her type of legacy behind - and it's very sad that her illness and death will prevent any further contributions.  Rest in peace.

And from David Lebovitz:

I was deeply saddened when I heard that someone who happens to have been a culinary icon (and hero) of mine, and who I was fortunate enough to work with in the kitchen, is no longer standing behind her stove. This morning I learned that Judy Rodgers the chef-owner of Zuni Café, had passed. I was fortunate the work with Judy for a few years on and off at Chez Panisse. Judy was incredibly dynamic as a person; so much so that I think even she had trouble dealing with all her energy! She was also a dynamic cook. And like the best cooks, her food wasn’t ever about her: It was about the food.

The roast chicken with bread salad at Zuni was the most iconic dish she made and was always worth waiting for. (Although once we drank too many martinis from the bar while we waited for it, and when I got home, I realized that I’d skipped out on the bill! – which I did go back and pay the next day.) The Caesar Salad at the restaurant was the best you could get, as were the pillow-light ricotta gnocchi and the excellent hamburger, which was perfect in every way. Whatever Judy made, was the best. In fact, one of the best things I ever ate in my entire life was a simple salad she’d handed to me one night at Chez Panisse, composed of escarole, rabbit loin, potatoes, and garlic confit smeared on toasts, all tumbled together with a warm, mustardy-dressing. I never dreamed a simple salad could taste so good, and I still remember the exact moment when I put the first forkful in my mouth – it was so, so good, and I still think about it nearly twenty-five years later.

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