Posted: 23 Nov 2014 - David Lebovitz
As the weather turns cooler, the
skies of Paris take on that violet-gray color that we’re all (too) familiar
with, which means the onset of winter. When you live in a space-challenged
city like Paris, that means going through those long-forgotten boxes you’ve
stored away since last spring, and sadly putting away those short sleeve
shirts and linens, replacing them in your closet with wool coats, scarves,
and mittens. (Although I think I am the only adult in Paris who wears them.
The other people, over eight years old, wear gloves.)
The outdoor markets of Paris take
place, rain or shine, sunshine or sleet, no matter what the skies and weather
are up to. The vendors never go on strike, and even on les jours fériés (national
and public holidays), they are always there, selling their fruits,
vegetables, meats, and cheeses. I’m always struck by their ability to stand
out there in the dead of winter when their cabbages, bunches of radishes, and
rows of lettuce, are all frozen solid. When the rest of us can barely stand
to be outside for more than thirty minutes, they’re there from 7am to 2pm in
the unfavorable weather, setting up, selling, then breaking everything down
and packing it all up, ready to do it all again the next day in another
neighborhood.
There is an outdoor market every day, somewhere
in Paris, except Monday, and most people simply go to the one
closest to where they live. Other markets may beckon, but few want to schlep
bags of produce home on the métro when they can walk to a market just a few
blocks away. And once you know the vendors at your market, it’s a much more
enjoyable experience to shop there. (Plus you get better stuff, and most
vendors let me pick my own produce, rather than decide for me.) I happen to
live between three outstanding markets – the Bastille market, Popincourt, and
the Marché d’Aligre. Here
are some of the things that caught my eye this week at the Popincourt market:
The first thing you’ll notice
during the winter is a lot of mandarines.
It’s not winter in France is you aren’t walking by tables heaped with mandarins
– a jumble of tangerines and clementines. They come from a variety of places,
but the ones from Corsica seem to draw the most interest. As for me, I tend
to grab ones that don’t have seeds in them. I also look for ones with fresh
leaves; wilted foliage is an indication that they’ve been picked a little
while ago.
Continue Reading This Weekend
at the Paris Market...
|
Monday, November 24, 2014
This Weekend at the Paris Market
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