Posted: 16 July 2013
Faced with an overload of cherries,
I had no choice but to make a mess. On a trip to London, and at a dinner in
Paris, I was served a couple of messes, an English
dessert that traditionally incorporates whipped cream, crumbled meringues, and
berries. But like most messes (present company included), they can often go in
unusual – and unpredictable – directions.
Over the years, it’s evolved and
I’ve seen versions that use everything from stewed rhubarb to tropical fruits.
Since we are smack-dab in the middle of cherry season, I can’t resist hauling
as many as I can carry home and eating them right off the stem. I keep buying
several kilos of cherries at a time while other market shoppers around me are
having the vendors weigh little brown paper sacks, most containing a mere poignée (handful) of
cherries, and they seem to be content with that.
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