I regularly visit the outdoors
markets in Paris to do my shopping. It’s a lot nicer than the supermarket and
I’ve gotten to know many of the vendors personally. Last Friday I took a lovely
journalist from Poland through the market, who was writing a story about me and
my new book. And I thought I’d be fun to take her shopping with me.
She asked me a lot of questions as I
blazed through the market, where I dialed in on some fresh figs immediately.
Worried that the fragile beauties would get smushed in my bag, I made a mental
note to go back and get some. The best market tip I can give is to see what
everyone has, then go back, and get what you want. But another is not to go
with any expectations, because what might be available in abundance one day,
will (invariably) be gone a few days later when you go back to get it. So I
stock up when I see things things, like the ripe ‘n ready black figs, shown up
above.
The ones that were syrupy and
sticky-soft got eaten fresh, right away. A few others were roasted in the
oven with some white wine, honey, and a few branches of fresh
thyme.
I also bought a magnificent head of
lettuce, since I eat a lot of salads. And even though I had plenty of cheese at
home – as usual – while introducing her the women who sell the stellar cheeses
that I’m fortunate to have so close by, I was powerless to resist the artisanal
goat cheeses, each wrapped in a chestnut leaf. And into my basket one of those went.
She asked me about root vegetables,
which are having a renaissance in France, so I took her to the stand that
specializes in les légumes
racines. I’d gotten bear’s garlic
from that vendor last year (and, of course, when I went to get more a few days
later, it was nowhere to be seen), and while perusing her colorful radishes and
beets, I noticed a basket holding tresses of ail
fumé, or smoked garlic.
Parisians aren’t know for the
abundant use of smoky flavors. So it’s a little surprising to see smoked garlic
at the markets. This specimen that came home with me hailed from the north of
France and a little research led to me learn that they’re Ail fumé d’Arleux, which have been in
production for over four hundred years. Smoking was originally a way to
preserve the garlic. Before refrigeration, people would store foods in their
chimneys (including cheese), which would help preserve it, as well as lend a
smoky taste. So why not garlic?
The most notable dish using smoked
garlic is soupe à l’ail
d’Arleux; a simple soup of smoked garlic, potatoes,
carrots, and thyme, sometimes topped with grated cheese or crème fraîche – you can find
some recipes here
and here,
in English.
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