Posted: 22 Oct 2014 - David Lebovitz
Sometimes I feel like a nitwit,
especially when people start talking about all the new restaurants in Paris. I
am a creature of habit (and I don’t like disappointment), so I generally go to
the same places. I also tend to stay on the Right Bank, where I live, as the
restaurants tend to be more exciting and less-fussy, with a more casual
ambiance.
But I’d heard good things about Pottoka, over in the 7th
arrondissement, helmed by chef Sébastian Gráve, who likes to improvise on his
native Basque cuisine, known for lots of colors and contrasts, as well as a
hint of spice. The restaurant is named for a breed of smallish horses from that
region, which is located in the southwest part of France, and spans into Spain
as well. So the foods often feature red peppers, lively seasonings, and
seafood. It’s also famous for the Ibaïonan (Basque) charcuterie, which is some
of the best in the world.
Since I was on my own, I didn’t
start with any of the nice charcuterie on offer. But the list had some notable
things on there, including cécina
(dried beef, which if you haven’t tried, is great stuff) and cochonailles (cured hams and
sausages) from the notable Eric Ospital.
Scanning the dining room at midday, from the looks of things, this was a
working lunch crowd that probably had to go back to their desks afterward, so
not many people were drinking wine. I had a ton of work piled up back at home,
too, but couldn’t resist a glass of cool Jurançon
from Domaine Cauhapé that
was pleasantly dry (some are sweet). It was a very generous pour and I cursed
the unpleasantness that was waiting for me at my own desk.
Continue Reading Pottoka...
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