Posted: 25 June 2014 by David Lebovitz
There were two things I heard
repeatedly about Pantelleria
before I got there. First: every person in Sicily told me I would love it;
second: I had to try the capers, which wasn’t difficult, considering they were
everywhere.
And I don’t mean in shops or on
restaurant menus. I mean, they’re growing everywhere on Pantelleria; on the
sides of roads, around stores and buildings, on craggy pathways, and next to
the stone walls that run up and down the hills of the island.
A long time ago, an uncle in New
England told me a pretty funny story. He was making a recipe that called for “pickled
capers.” But he decided that he’d improve the recipe by using fresh. He looked
in shops and grocers for fresh capers all over town, and couldn’t find any.
While capers grow in several
countries around the world, and there may indeed be a plant tucked away in some
greenhouse in Connecticut, I don’t think you’ll have much luck finding them
fresh, as you so easily can, in Pantelleria.
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