To start a food trend from agriculture is “one of the riskiest” things an entrepreneur can do, David Sax writes in “The Tastemakers,” his entertaining new excursion into, as his subtitle has it, “Why We’re Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up With Fondue.” “Yet every day,” he adds, “there are countless farmers, scientists and gardening dreamers with a trowel in their hand, digging in the dirt and planting the seed that they hope will one day change the way we eat.”
Sax could well be describing Dan Barber, the nationally prominent chef whose Blue Hill restaurants, one in Greenwich Village and the other in Westchester County, have knit farming practices into daily menus in a way few other high-profile farm-to-table restaurants have been able to manage. In articles, TED talks and at conferences, Barber has established himself as one of the food world’s leading voices on how farm practices influence flavor. And now he establishes himself as one of the food world’s leading writers.
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