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The great
thing about writing a single-subject cookbook is that you really get to
explore one specific topic, which involves not just sharing what you
already know, but what you’ve learned about the subject. When people ask
me how I can tell if a cookbook is good, I say that if I read the
headnotes and the author talks about the process they went through the get
to the recipe, from testing various ingredients to discussing what worked
(and sometimes, what didn’t), you get a sense of how thoughtfully the
recipes were put together.
 I’ve been a
fan of Alice
Medrich for years and her most recent book, Flavor
Flours, tackles the subject of using different kinds of flour
to create a new palette of flavors in desserts. Like Good to the
Grain, Alice found that replacing wheat flour with other kinds
flour yields results that often surpass their wheat-based counterparts.
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