It’s been a
hectic year and I haven’t gotten out as much as I’d like to, in spite of
a long list of places I’m trying to visit in Paris, and a more I plan to
check out this fall. Early in the summer, I reserved a table at Fulgurances,
intrigued by the food of Israeli chef Tamir Nahmias, former executive
chef at Frenchie.
His cuisine is infused with the flavors of the Middle East; tahini,
pickles, lot of tomatoes and eggplant, long-cooked meats, and a generous
hand with fresh herbs. All of which appeal to me.
taken a turn in the last few years with younger chefs and talent
emphasizing freshness, sourcing ingredients from small-scale farmers and
local producers, and a liberal use of vegetables on their menus.
has been open for about a year and doesn’t have a fixed chef. Instead,
chefs are welcome to come and cook for a period of time, whatever fits
their schedule. A fulgurance
is something that comes at great speed, and has a dazzling quality. In
this case, it’s a chef arriving and exciting us with outstanding
I had to
change the reservation I’d made in the early summer a number of
times, then ultimately cancel it, which was unfortunate, but too much was
happening at the time. Thankfully I finally made it to Fulgurances
with my friends Ann
for dinner, and liked it so much, I went back for lunch a few days later,
when the light was better to take some photos: The daylight was
coming into the restaurant, which provided a better backdrop for the
food. A few dishes were some of the best I’ve had in Paris.